khguan's DIY Gallery http://khguan.fotopic.net/ 52 rows en-gb 60 Super Pro PU Bush Upgrade for Front Lower Arms http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1770894.html My car has been getting weird noises on the front end whenever I go over uneven roads. There's squeaking, rattling, and even knocking sound. Checking back the maintenance record, I found out that my front lower arms were still the factory fitted ones and has been used for close to 9 years. Later I also found out that one of the ball joint has freeplay already, which explains the knocking sound. Time to get new ones. So this is a good chance to upgrade the rubber bushes with something much better. The SuperPro PU bushings. So I got a pair of OEM replacement arms and sent to the machinery shop to remove the rubber bush to insert the new PU bushes. After the installation, my suspension feels much more solid and most of the weird noises disappeared. Enjoy the pics. Wednesday 21 October 2009: My car has been getting weird noises on the front end whenever I go over uneven roads. There's squeaking, rattling, and even knocking sound. Checking back the maintenance record, I found out that my front lower arms were still the factory fitted ones and has been used for close to 9 years. Later I also found out that one of the ball joint has freeplay already, which explains the knocking sound. Time to get new ones. So this is a good chance to upgrade the rubber bushes with something much better. The SuperPro PU bushings. So I got a pair of OEM replacement arms and sent to the machinery shop to remove the rubber bush to insert the new PU bushes. After the installation, my suspension feels much more solid and most of the weird noises disappeared. Enjoy the pics.

Brand New OEM replacement arms These are the bushes that need to be replaced SuperPro PU Bush - Easy to fit in, hard to wear out Front control bush Front control bush Rear big bush Rubber bushes replaced with PU bushes Rubber bushes replaced with PU bushes New arm VS old arm New arms installed in place New arms installed in place New arms installed in place Rear ARB using SuperPro satay bushes

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed Oct 21 2009 DIY Port n Polish Throttle Body http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1682107.html I got myself a couple of spare TB and recently I got a new toy, the Dremel tool. Took this opportunity to port and polish the TB for better airflow at high rpm range. The TB shown here is a 1.6 TB taken from 4G92 SOHC engine which the previous owner already ported the top part for better flow. Now i'm porting the entire TB and polishing it to mirror finish. Tuesday 14 April 2009: I got myself a couple of spare TB and recently I got a new toy, the Dremel tool. Took this opportunity to port and polish the TB for better airflow at high rpm range. The TB shown here is a 1.6 TB taken from 4G92 SOHC engine which the previous owner already ported the top part for better flow. Now i'm porting the entire TB and polishing it to mirror finish.

This is another set of TB taken from 4G93 DOHC engine Camparison across 1.5, 1.6 n 1.8 TBs. Just a reference Original 1.6 TB, the previous owner ported the top part to improve airflow when the throttle plate opens The bottom part is untouched This is my new toy... the Dremel tool with suitable bits First we start with porting the sharp edges with the grinding stone at moderate speed Then smoothen the curves with sandpaper at low speed Once the surface is smooth enough, polish the surface with felt and Autosol metal polish Further polishing by using smaller felt tip. Throttle plate is also polished The throttle plate is grounded to knife edge to give better airflow during partial throttle. Edges are polished to mirror finsih as well Port n polish job completed This is the comparison before and after

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Apr 14 2009 DIY Replace Front Brake Pads http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1672837.html This DIY I wanted to post for such a long time but didnt have the time and chance to do so. Finally, I got a set of new pads to test out and took the chance to document it as well. Pretty simple steps with simple hand tools needed. Just make sure you clean the brake assembly well during the installation for a noise-free braking experience. Friday 27 March 2009: This DIY I wanted to post for such a long time but didnt have the time and chance to do so. Finally, I got a set of new pads to test out and took the chance to document it as well. Pretty simple steps with simple hand tools needed. Just make sure you clean the brake assembly well during the installation for a noise-free braking experience.

Jack the car up halfway. Tyres still in contact with ground. Loosen the lug nuts with the extended L-Wrench. Remove lock nuts 1st if you have any. Jack up the car until the tyres lift off the ground. Remove the wheel. Turn the key to ACC position. Turn the steering wheel to the outwards direction Loosen and remove the caliper bolt Rotate the caliper upwards and slide it out to remoce from the brake disc. Clean the caliper bolts so that they can slide freely during braking. For my style, I like to hang the caliper on the absorber so that it will not intefere the job at the brake disc area. Remove the pads by sliding it out sideways. Clean the metal clips and related areas with the copper brush. Compressed air would be useful here. Remove backing plates on the brake pads Transfer the backing plates to the new pads. Fit in one side of pad to the inner side of caliper. Now we need to push the caliper piston in so that we can fit in thicker new pads. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Fit in the caliper and pry with the flathead screwdriver as shown above, until the piston is completely in. Now rotate the caliper upwards and fit in the other side of pad. Align the rubber boot. Put some high-temp grease on the caliper bolts and slide in the bolts. Tighten the caliper bolt. Fit in the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the jack halfway until the tyres touch the ground. Tighten the lug nuts, tighten the lock nuts last if u have any. Remove excessive brake fluid on the resevoir if necessary and close the cap tight. Start the engine and pump the brake pedal until it is firm. Drive slowly out and bed-in the pads gradually. The tools needed for the job. Copper brush, big flat head screwdriver, 17mm box socket, 21mm box socket, box extension, L-Wrench

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Mar 27 2009 DIY Restore and Smoke Wira Headlights http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1606187.html My friend Kenny has a set of spare Wira headlights which is not so good in condition. He passed to me and see what i can do to it do restore the condition and enhance the outlook of hte headlights. Here's what I have done, cleaned and smoked the headlights. Now the headlights look better in condition. Tuesday 4 November 2008: My friend Kenny has a set of spare Wira headlights which is not so good in condition. He passed to me and see what i can do to it do restore the condition and enhance the outlook of hte headlights. Here's what I have done, cleaned and smoked the headlights. Now the headlights look better in condition.

Original Bosch headlights, slightly blurred glass on the inner side with dust and sand. 1st, remove the clips holding the headlamp glass. Heat up the sides of the glass to soften the glue with a hot air gun. This process will take about 3-5 minutes. Make sure the headlamp sides are heated up evenly. When the headlamp is heated up properly, carefully pry the sides with a flathead screwdriver and then peel off the glass from the headlamp. The reflector and glass seems to be dirty. The left-right adjustment screw. The bottom-up adjustment screw Upper glass is cleaned, compared to the bottom dirty glass. Headlamp reflectors are covered with masking tape and paper, ready for spray job. The headlights left to dry after spraying 2-3 layers of black paint. Masking tape removed and the headlights now look new. Flat black finishing. Add in more waterproof sealant to make sure water do not get in in future. Done! Looks good huh? Smoked n restored original Bosch headlights. Another set of original Bosch headlights restored n smoked. Before and after comparison. Those are the same set of headlights. Before and after comparison. A set of brand new wira headlights smoked My car new look, more aggressive!! Smoked headlights and parking lamp.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Nov 4 2008 Satria GTi Exhaust Center Piping Upgrade http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1605680.html Recently I was thinking of getting a bigger diameter center piping as the engine displacement was increased to 1.6L after the major engine overhaul. I was thinking of using 2.0 inch piping, but then one of my friend adviced that I will lose low end torque with 2.0 inch piping. And coincidentaly this friend of mine wanted to upgrade his Satria GTi 1.8L piping to 2.0 inch. So this would be a good chance for me to get his original piping to fit into my car. The GTi piping is slightly shorter by about 4.0 inches which need to be extended to fit into my car. The result was quite satisfying as the pickup and power increased throughout the entire RPM range. Monday 3 November 2008: Recently I was thinking of getting a bigger diameter center piping as the engine displacement was increased to 1.6L after the major engine overhaul. I was thinking of using 2.0 inch piping, but then one of my friend adviced that I will lose low end torque with 2.0 inch piping. And coincidentaly this friend of mine wanted to upgrade his Satria GTi 1.8L piping to 2.0 inch. So this would be a good chance for me to get his original piping to fit into my car. The GTi piping is slightly shorter by about 4.0 inches which need to be extended to fit into my car. The result was quite satisfying as the pickup and power increased throughout the entire RPM range.

Kenny's original GTi piping placed together with the new aftermarket 2.0 inch piping. The aftermarket 2.0 inch piping is longer as the catalytic converter is no longer needed in an upgraded exhaust system. The GTi piping cleaned and sprayed black with high temperature paint. Soon after that I noticed that the piping is not long enough to fit into my car. Piping extended to fit into my car. Wrapped with thermal wrap all the way front to back. My downpipe thermal wrap has torn off b4 this, so replaced with new one. The entire exhaust piping from the header to the rear are thermal wrapped.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Mon Nov 3 2008 Front ARB Bolt Replacement http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1577974.html Few months ago, I have replaced the front anti-roll bar of my car with a much bigger diameter one. It is a 23mm front ARB which comes from Mitsubishi MIVEC suspension. The original Wira front ARB is only 20mm in diameter. Until recently, when i wanted to tighten the bolt so that the bushes are tighter, I noticed that one of the armlink bolt was bent. So went to a local bolt n nut shop to get a stronger and shorter bolt with self-locking nut for replacement. My car handle very well after the bolt replacement. Saturday 13 September 2008: Few months ago, I have replaced the front anti-roll bar of my car with a much bigger diameter one. It is a 23mm front ARB which comes from Mitsubishi MIVEC suspension. The original Wira front ARB is only 20mm in diameter. Until recently, when i wanted to tighten the bolt so that the bushes are tighter, I noticed that one of the armlink bolt was bent. So went to a local bolt n nut shop to get a stronger and shorter bolt with self-locking nut for replacement. My car handle very well after the bolt replacement.

New bolt The other side. New bolt replaced. The new bolt on the right, with new self-locking nut. The Super Pro PU bushes seems to be still good in condition. The original armlink bolt bent.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Sep 13 2008 Oversized Throttle Body Upgrade - Satria GTi 4G93 TB Modification http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1577663.html From the previous collection, I have posted the pics on my car engine major overhaul. After the overhaul, the air intake has been dramatically increased and the main restriction to the entire system would be the TB itself. One of my friends adviced my to replace the TB to a larger size to optimised the engine performance. So I got this larger TB from a Satria GTi 1.8L which share the same mounting positions. But there is a little problem for this TB as the bottom harness socket is not compatible with my car. Well, this can be solved by just swapping the bottom part with my original one from the 1.5L version. During the engine overhaul before, I already bypassed the water hoses into the TB. So there is no problems swapping the bottom end of the TB. If you notice the 1st picture, the water channels are not exatly the same for both TBs. After the installation, the TB works fine without any idling problems. The only thing i need to do is to adjust the throttle able tension and adjust the idling screw to get the correct idling speed. Then some serious porting need to be done on the intake manifold to match the new TB port. The results?? Matched with my other engine mods, this upgrade is simply amazing!! The low-end torque increased tremendously and the powerband had never been so great! Money well spent. Friday 12 September 2008: From the previous collection, I have posted the pics on my car engine major overhaul. After the overhaul, the air intake has been dramatically increased and the main restriction to the entire system would be the TB itself. One of my friends adviced my to replace the TB to a larger size to optimised the engine performance. So I got this larger TB from a Satria GTi 1.8L which share the same mounting positions. But there is a little problem for this TB as the bottom harness socket is not compatible with my car. Well, this can be solved by just swapping the bottom part with my original one from the 1.5L version. During the engine overhaul before, I already bypassed the water hoses into the TB. So there is no problems swapping the bottom end of the TB. If you notice the 1st picture, the water channels are not exatly the same for both TBs. After the installation, the TB works fine without any idling problems. The only thing i need to do is to adjust the throttle able tension and adjust the idling screw to get the correct idling speed. Then some serious porting need to be done on the intake manifold to match the new TB port. The results?? Matched with my other engine mods, this upgrade is simply amazing!! The low-end torque increased tremendously and the powerband had never been so great! Money well spent.

A temporary gasket for the new TB. 8mm difference in port size, resulting a 4mm circular restriction into the intake manifold. This is quite bad if the throttle valve plate is opened slightly or cruising slowly. This is the mark on the intake manifold after using a week. Time to do some serious porting. My 1st attempt to port the intake manifold. Yeah! It works and the acceleration became smoother. Thanx to Drex who custom made a plastic cover for the bottom part of the TB which seems to be The throttle plate and inner walls polished to bling! Bling bling TB inner walls! Another bling bling!! The inner walls polishing are done by my own fingers. Here are the tools i used for porting and polishing. Soon, i'm gonna port the entire restriction to match with the TB port. Stay tuned. So far I only ported the bottom part. The intake manifold is then polished till smooth n shiny for better airflow. Surface is smoothen. Ready to be polished to mirror finish. Another bling bling!! Second stage polishing for the TB inner walls. This time i use an electric drill. Polished with metal polish. Bling bling!! TB back in place. Wira MMC 4G15 (46mm) vs Satria GTi 4G93 (54mm)

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Sep 12 2008 Major Full Engine Overhaul http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1559912.html Alright, its been a long long time I didnt post pictures here. This collection is about my car which undergone a major engine overhaul due to serious engine oil leak externally and internally. It was done back in April with the help of my colleague. All wear and tear parts like oil seals, gaskets, worn-out parts are replaced. Since everything already dismantled, I sent my engine cylinder head for port-n-polish and the block for rebore to fit in 1.6 stroker kit. After everything's done, my car is back alive with more torque and power. Very nice to drive and the best thing is the fuel consumption is not affected! Monday 11 August 2008: Alright, its been a long long time I didnt post pictures here. This collection is about my car which undergone a major engine overhaul due to serious engine oil leak externally and internally. It was done back in April with the help of my colleague. All wear and tear parts like oil seals, gaskets, worn-out parts are replaced. Since everything already dismantled, I sent my engine cylinder head for port-n-polish and the block for rebore to fit in 1.6 stroker kit. After everything's done, my car is back alive with more torque and power. Very nice to drive and the best thing is the fuel consumption is not affected!

Put the car on jack stands. Dismantling process starts with the battery and air filter Exhaust header removed and my colleague was removing the drivetrain parts Remove the lower cross member and engine mountings. Lower the engine with 2 jacks. Remove any wiring that connects to the engine. Distributor removed. Remove other wiring and hoses such as aircon hose, powersteering hose etc etc. The engine is out. Leaving an empty engine bay. Empty engine bay... Empty engine bay... My engine is sitting on the floor. The gold pulley is Mythelogy lightened crank pulley. Good stuff!! My engine with the gearbox still in place. Gearbox removed from the engine. Sound dampening material which I stick few year ago, still sticking nicely! The water hose on the throttle body already been bypassed. Two of the loosed thread on the gearbox when removing the engine mounting bolts. Crap! A peep into the intake ports. Another peep on another intake port. Cylinder head is out, lots of carbon deposit. Powerzone 268 duration camshaft Rocker arms and the assembly. Thick carbon deposit. White deposit on the exhaust valves. The block and pistons. Kenny removing the crankshaft and pistons Removing the main bearings. Conrod parts and bearing. 4G15 stoker kit. My rear trunk, my very own halfcut shop... hehehe Alrite... my engine is fully stripped. Climb into my engine bay, took a picture of my DIY CAI hose. This is a rare view that we should appreciate. My car without engine, look at the raised front height. It should be only 2 fingers gap at the fender. Put the engine on the floor. B very careful as the engine is very heavy. Raise the car higher so that the engine slides out. One fine night, me cleaning the gearbox housing. Brush brush brush... clean clean clean. My 4-2-1 extractor painted with high-temp black, look pretty new huh? Valve cover painted. Bling!! Oil sump also painted. Extractor mummified with thermal bandange. Lower cross member painted. Lower cross member scratched. One last look of the extractor b4 mumified. Mummified extractor. Mummified extractor. My bling bling collection. Heheh The midpiping joins the crowd too! Midpiping wrapped with the remaining thermal bandage. Nice n smooth!! Valves and related parts to be cleaned. Nice n smooth!! Port and polished airways. Finally my engine cylinder head is back. So shiny!! Another piece of bling!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Mon Aug 11 2008 DIY Custom Subwoofer Enclosure Faceplate http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1433097.html This is the very last project for the year 2007, and completed the very last day of 2007 31st Dec. As promised earlier, this is the 2nd fiberglass project which i call it the Subwoofer Faceplate, which turned out quite good.. hehe.. Well, this project is the most time consuming one as there are lots of sanding and grinding involved to get the surface smooth enough. But at last i gave up sanding to perfection, but still look good enough for viewing from far.. :D Throughout the entire process of making this faceplate, i discovered more efficient techniques which can speed up and make the job much easier to produce better results, which will be useful in coming fiberglass projects. Next i'm thinking of doing some minor interior jobs. havent decide yet. So enjoy viewing ;) Lots of pics. Tuesday 1 January 2008: This is the very last project for the year 2007, and completed the very last day of 2007 31st Dec. As promised earlier, this is the 2nd fiberglass project which i call it the Subwoofer Faceplate, which turned out quite good.. hehe.. Well, this project is the most time consuming one as there are lots of sanding and grinding involved to get the surface smooth enough. But at last i gave up sanding to perfection, but still look good enough for viewing from far.. :D Throughout the entire process of making this faceplate, i discovered more efficient techniques which can speed up and make the job much easier to produce better results, which will be useful in coming fiberglass projects. Next i'm thinking of doing some minor interior jobs. havent decide yet. So enjoy viewing ;) Lots of pics.

Washers at each edge of the faceplate. Fasten a flat washer with a screw for the mounting hole later. Apply resin on the cloth. Make sure the resin damp the entire cloth. Leave to dry. Drying time depends on how much resin catalyst (hardener) is used. Once the resin harden the cloth, cut off the unwanted part, the center hole with a small blade. Decide on the slanting angle and stick on the support sticks with hot melt glue. Apply resin and lay the fiberglass sheets onto the surface and apply resin. Leave to cure and repeat for another 2 layers. Until it is hard enough to sustain the bass vibration. First n foremost, cut out the subwoofer frames with rounded edge. Now attach flexible cloth with staples. Here i use 2 layers of cloth for better strength. Make sure the staples are stapled closely. Alright, here i did lots of strecthing and stapling. Strecth n stretch, with strength. The entire faceplate is now wrapped up with the flexible cloth. Trim off the extra cloth on the unwanted side. Make sure the cloth is stretched firmly. Here i grind the surface with a disc grinder with sandpaper fitted. The first step of grinding is a very coarse grinding. Now i use 100 grit sandpaper to get a smoother finishing. Surface cleaned with an air gun and ready for putty. Look what the grinder has done to the surface. That's pretty ugly huh? Putty applied, leave to dry and start sanding again. In order to make the uneveness more visible, I sprayed a layer of primer paint on the surface. Apply fine putty to smooth the small holes. Sand it smooth and repeat applying putty until it is really smooth. I got fed up and proceed to the next step after applying putty for 2 times. Heheh! Drill and dig and then remove the screw. Locate the screws that hold the washers. Sand with 100 grit sandpaper. Until it is smooth. OK, finally the spraying process. Here i used automotive paint which is same color with my car (mixed into a spraying can). Sprayed 2 layers evenly. Once the paint is dry, spray clear coat for a glossy finishing. Again this clear coat is also automotive paint. Fasten the faceplate onto the enclosure. Remove the old subwoofer from the enclosure. Drill holes and put the mounting screws in place. Carefully fit in the new subwoofer onto the faceplate.Very good fit!! It took me a while to fit in the subwoofer nicely. Finally i have a more bling-ed out boot. Hooray!! After about 2 months of work. Testing the subwoofer, need some tuning definitely. Looks good in the boot area. Pretty COOL!! Stick on foam tape to seal the air from getting out of the enclosure. Last look before the new look. It's been some time I used the plexiglass on my enclosure. See... same color with my car body.. heheh.. :)

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Jan 1 2008 DIY Custom Fiberglass Eyelids http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1417212.html Hi again, it's been sometime I didn't post new stuff here. Been bz with work n stuff. Thanx for all who stayed tuned to my gallery postings. :) This time is the 1st time I mess with resin n fiberglass works. Well for the 1st attempt, I chose something small which is easier to fabricate and for practice. Here I have done two sets of fiberglass eyelids which is quite sucessful. Coming up next will be a custom "face-plate" for extending my subwoofer enclosure to fit longer subwoofers. Hehehe.... Saturday 1 December 2007: Hi again, it's been sometime I didn't post new stuff here. Been bz with work n stuff. Thanx for all who stayed tuned to my gallery postings. :) This time is the 1st time I mess with resin n fiberglass works. Well for the 1st attempt, I chose something small which is easier to fabricate and for practice. Here I have done two sets of fiberglass eyelids which is quite sucessful. Coming up next will be a custom "face-plate" for extending my subwoofer enclosure to fit longer subwoofers. Hehehe....

Check for potential leak areas, and it is ready for laying fiberglass. Mix the resin with recommended amount of hardener in a small cup. Here I used a small mineral bottle cut into half n a 1 Start on the other headlight and then apply 2nd layer of fiberglass on the first headlight. Apply enough resin and make sure no air trapped in between the fiberglass sheets. Push out air bubbles with the brush. Apply a layer of resin on the guided area 1st, then apply a layer of fiberglass sheet on it. Apply resin to wet the fiberglass sheet to stick on. Apply another layer (3 layers in total) of fiberglass and leave them to dry. This will take about 1-2 hours depending on how much hardener used on the resin. First n foremost, cover the entire headlight with masking tape. Draft the desired shape of the eyelids with pencil, rub off with eraser if alteration is needed. One thing to note is to lay the fiberglass slightly more than the guided area so that we can trim the edges later. Then cover the bumper as well with garbage bag. Just in case the resin drip down. Now draw the outline of the entire eyelid as a guide for the fiberglassing process. Before I made those eyelids, heres the 1st version of eyelids I experimented with, which is now on my colleague's car. 1st prototype right 1st prototype left Apply putty on the eyelids to cover the holes on the fiberglass eyelids. The left one is already sanded smooth with the grinding disc by hand. You can use a coarse sand paper too (100 grit). When the surface is smooth enough to the eye, now we use 600 grit sand paper with water for smoother finishing. Dry the eyelids thoroughly and spray a layer of paint. Remove the hardened eyelids carefully and trim the edges with a cutting disc. Using a grinding disc (paper type), by hands, sand the edges and the surface until both pieces are identical/symmetrical. Tiny holes spotted. This time apply smooth putty to cover all the tiny holes n uneven surfaces. Once the putty dry, repeat the smooth sanding with water. Spray desired paint for a few layers, the other surface spray black to prevent light shining through the eyelid material. Spray clear coat for glossy finishing. Left side eyelid Right side eyelid. Done!! Stick the eyelids onto the headlights with double sided tape. Close-up view of the eyelid.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Dec 1 2007 DIY Install Hella FF75 Driving Lights http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1247629.html I have been looking for a good pair of fog lights or spotlights... but later i found out that fog lights are usually used in foggy conditions and most aftermarket fog lights are only for aesthetics. The light spread of fog lights are very near and makes no difference to the driving vision. The other thing is many of the aftermarket fog lights do not last and you might experience water getting into the light or the glass breaking due to cold rain water on a hot light. Until recently, about few months ago, I noticed this pair of so called "Driving Lights" by Hella in a car accessories retail shop which looks good and checked out the light beam spread from the internet. This is the light i want and finally i found it!! Woohoo!! The installation took me half a day as I always want a close-to-perfect installation workmanship. The results is very very satisfying, the light beam spread is quite broad and even, which i can drive even without the headlight ON. Thursday 5 April 2007: I have been looking for a good pair of fog lights or spotlights... but later i found out that fog lights are usually used in foggy conditions and most aftermarket fog lights are only for aesthetics. The light spread of fog lights are very near and makes no difference to the driving vision. The other thing is many of the aftermarket fog lights do not last and you might experience water getting into the light or the glass breaking due to cold rain water on a hot light. Until recently, about few months ago, I noticed this pair of so called "Driving Lights" by Hella in a car accessories retail shop which looks good and checked out the light beam spread from the internet. This is the light i want and finally i found it!! Woohoo!! The installation took me half a day as I always want a close-to-perfect installation workmanship. The results is very very satisfying, the light beam spread is quite broad and even, which i can drive even without the headlight ON.

Hella FF75 Driving Lights Locate the plastic clips of the grill. Use a flat head screwdriver to push down the clips. As usual, place the car on jack stands as we need to remove the bumper. Get the tools to remove the grill and bumper. Clear the floor area below the car. Pull the grill backwards. The plastic clips will be sticking on the car. Remove them fom the car and fix them back to the grill. Clips fixed back in position. The grill now can be snapped back in place later after the DIY job. Cut the bumper with a hacksaw blade. This will be the position of the driving light. OK the lgiht fits the hole. Good. Now we can drill holes for mountings. Relay wiring for drawing current directly from the battery. The trigger power will be drawn from the small light. Measure the bumper hole for cutting. Remove the mounting bolts and screws of the bumper and slide out the bumper. Remove the side bumper light so that the bumper can slide out easily. Night time view from inside the car. Very satisfied with the results based on the money spent and effort put in. The light beam spread with my headlights ON... notice the yellowish beam?? Now my headlights are like secondary lights already.. hahaha.. The light beam spread of the Hella Driving lights. The light captured outside during the night. My phone camera not that good for night photography, so 4 lights become 2 lights... LoL Ground connection for the left light. Testing the lights. WOW!! Nice!! I'm smilling... ^_^ HID ballasts in position. Can you spot them? Fix everything back in position. This is how my car look now during the day... Look like Dracula huh??

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu Apr 5 2007 DIY CAI (Cold Air Intake) - New Shorter Air-Path http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1246369.html The last CAI DIY I did was without taking out the bumper, and the CAI hose path was a little long and crushed by the bumper. If there is a fog light, the pathway will be blocked. Now.. the new setup uses shorter CAI hose as the hose go through the chassis bypass holes without getting the CAI hose crushed. But at a price of removing the bumper in order to get it all done nicely. For this DIY, the pictures taken are not on my own car. This car is my customer's car who asked me to install the CAI hose for him at a small fee. ^_^ Tuesday 3 April 2007: The last CAI DIY I did was without taking out the bumper, and the CAI hose path was a little long and crushed by the bumper. If there is a fog light, the pathway will be blocked. Now.. the new setup uses shorter CAI hose as the hose go through the chassis bypass holes without getting the CAI hose crushed. But at a price of removing the bumper in order to get it all done nicely. For this DIY, the pictures taken are not on my own car. This car is my customer's car who asked me to install the CAI hose for him at a small fee. ^_^

Bumper side screw... remove it.. Place the car on jack stands. Locate the bumper main bolts and clips. Bumper side plastic clip.. remove with TEST PEN... a Philips screwdriver will spoil the plastic clip. Peep the bottom of the bumper, you will find this clip, got 2 of them.. use a long-nose plier to hold the Also you will see these 2 deep holes each side under the headlights. Use a 12mm socket wrench ratchet with extended adapter to remove the M8 bolts. Remove the battery and airbox to access the U-Snorkel. Remove the 2 mounting bolts on the U-Snorkel. Once the mounting bolts are removed, the bottom piece of the U-Snorkel can be removed and attach the CAI hose onto the upper piece. Here I use cable ties. The CAI hose pathway to the front bumper area. Tie the funnel to the chassis with cable ties so that it will stay in place at the right position and facing the right direction. Fix everything back in place including the bumper. DONE!! Almost done... and it was raining... Using a funnel to scoop air. Notice the trimmed part so that the funnel fits nicely behind the bumper.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Apr 3 2007 DIY HID Anti-Glare Shield http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1241812.html Previously I installed the H4 type HID kit which has a quite glaring beam to oncoming traffic. This is due to the poor design of the anti-glare shield that comes together with the HID bulbs. So I refered to some other brands of HID bulbs and custom made this anti-glare shield of my own. It tok me two attempts to get it right. The 1st attempt did not go well as the anti-glare shield cover too much of the HID bulb. So I made another one which is similar to ELEVO HID anti-glare shield, which works on my HID bulbs... hooray!!! The 1st prototype reduced the glare very nicely.. but the beam became very dim.. just like normal white bulbs... Can't live with that... The 2nd one is fine.... bright but with reduced glare. Wednesday 28 March 2007: Previously I installed the H4 type HID kit which has a quite glaring beam to oncoming traffic. This is due to the poor design of the anti-glare shield that comes together with the HID bulbs. So I refered to some other brands of HID bulbs and custom made this anti-glare shield of my own. It tok me two attempts to get it right. The 1st attempt did not go well as the anti-glare shield cover too much of the HID bulb. So I made another one which is similar to ELEVO HID anti-glare shield, which works on my HID bulbs... hooray!!! The 1st prototype reduced the glare very nicely.. but the beam became very dim.. just like normal white bulbs... Can't live with that... The 2nd one is fine.... bright but with reduced glare.

Original beam... Cant see the glare as the camera is not that good. Dismantle the bulb from the headlight. With that prototype, cut 2 new pieces. Bend the front edges for frontal glare shield. The prototype anti-glare shield. Cut the aluminium sheet into a strip with a sharp blade and ruler. Use a scissors to cut the aluminium sheet. Roll the aluminium sheet on a marker pen, fold the bent parts earlier. First prototype done. Waiting to be tested. The origianl anti-glare shield. Which do not work that well. Second version of my DIY anti-glare shield which works better than the original and the 1st prototype. First prototype, cover too much of the bulb resulting dim light beam. Done!! Done!! New beam... cant see the difference as well due to camera limitations. But in real life... the glare reduced... feel nicer to drive around. Satisfied with the results.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed Mar 28 2007 DIY Tweeter Mounting on A-Pillar http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1175720.html Due to the influence of my friend Gary who DIYed his A-Pillars with tweeter and midrange mountings, and thanx to his ideas, here comes my version of customised A-Pillar for my pair of tweeters. The entire process of the job is fairly long which took me about 2-3 days to complete everything including the wrapping process which took me sometime to hunt for it. This is a very good experience for me to deal with fiberglass materials and custom fabrications. This is the 1st time dealing with fiberglass fabrication, so my workmanship isnt that good. Heheh... Thursday 4 January 2007: Due to the influence of my friend Gary who DIYed his A-Pillars with tweeter and midrange mountings, and thanx to his ideas, here comes my version of customised A-Pillar for my pair of tweeters. The entire process of the job is fairly long which took me about 2-3 days to complete everything including the wrapping process which took me sometime to hunt for it. This is a very good experience for me to deal with fiberglass materials and custom fabrications. This is the 1st time dealing with fiberglass fabrication, so my workmanship isnt that good. Heheh...

The baffle rings are cut from the scrap pieces of MDF board. (From Gary's A-Pillar job.. Thanx mate!) Grind the inner ring to enlarge the hole so that the tweeter can fit into the baffle ring. The drill set does not have the correct size for the tweeters, so i chose a slightly smaller one. Now the tweeter fits nicely on the baffle ring. The baffle rings ground and smoothened the edges as well. Mount the tweeters in place with blue-tag and get the desired positioning together with the baffle ring. Right Side. Mount the tweeters in place with blue-tag and get the desired positioning together with the baffle ring. Left Side. Once the desired tweeter positioning is done, carefully remove the pillar covers together with the tweeters in place. Prepare a hot melt glue applicator and a pair of wooden chopsticks. Cut the chopsticks into shorter pieces and stick them in place to support the baffle ring. Make sure the baffle ring is secured firmly. Carefuly remove the tweeter from the baffle ring with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the blue-tag as well. Get a stretchable cloth for the base layer to give the baffle mounting a shape. I used normal cotton T-short material, just cut from a T-shirt.. hehe... Apply contact adhesive a.k.a. DUNLOP GLUE to the pillar and stick on the cloth. Stretch the cloth and stick it on the other side of the pillar. Trim off the extra parts of the cloth. Base layer done. Apply the glue according to the guide to get the desired shape after the cloth is sticked on. Initially i tried to harden the cloth material by spraying paint lacquer (clear coat) onto the cloth. But it didnt work well. This step can be skipped. Left : The Fiberglass filler that i used for this DIY. Right : Putty for smoother finishing. The base layer dried with paint lacquer. The fiberglass filler with the hardener paste. Can you see the fiber?? This amount is enough for one layer for one piece of pillar. The hardener paste and the fiber paste... mixed them well before application. Apply the fiber filler onto the base cloth with a small scraper. Spread it evenly. First layer of fiber done. Let it dry and apply another 2 layers until they are hard enough. Finally cured after the 3rd layer of application. Smoothen the surface with files and sand paper. Apply putty with a cloth to smoothen the surface. At 1st, I wanted to paint the entire pillar as i do not wanto go through the hassle of wrapping them. But the finishing seems not too promising for a paint job. I have got myself some PVC leather which matches the interior of my car. Measure and cut. Apply glue on the center part. Apply glue on the fabric as well. Let it dry up a little before sticking them on. The wrapping process needs a lot of strecthing. Will need some practise b4 getting it nicely done. So didnt manage to take much pics here. Wrapping process done!! Tiring and smelling the glue makes you high!! HAHA!! Well uuhh.. it would be nicer if i have 4 hands.. :P Cut the hole with a blade. Meet Appilarr from Planet Zarg. Finally installed!!! Woohoo!! Finally installed!!! Woohoo!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu Jan 4 2007 DIY Spray Brake Caliper http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1170416.html After getting my rims... one fine morning.. suddenly I felt like spraying the brake calipers RED. :-) So I got my tools and start the DIY right away. The entire process took me about 1 hour. Enjoy! Friday 29 December 2006: After getting my rims... one fine morning.. suddenly I felt like spraying the brake calipers RED. :-) So I got my tools and start the DIY right away. The entire process took me about 1 hour. Enjoy!

Firstly, jack up the car halfway and loosen the lug nuts. Then jack the car all the way up until the tyres lift off the ground. Fit in the jack stands and remove the lug nuts and rims. Turn the brake disc-caliper assembly outwards by either using some force on it or by turning the steering wheel. Remove the lower mounting bolt of the caliper with a good-quality ring spaner. You might need a hammer to loosen the bolt by hitting the wrench. Tilt the caliper upwards and slide inwards to remove the caliper. Remove the brake pads and the guide clips from the caliper. Put back the caliper in place and wash with degreaser. Some brushing would be helpful here. Dry the brake assembly under the sun or by an air gun for faster drying. While waiting for the caliper to completely dry, clean the brake pads and Wrap the brake disc and other parts that do not want to be painted with newspaper and start spraying. Spray about 3-4 thin layers. Fit back the guide clips back in place as well as the brake pads. If you are having difficulties in fitting brake the caliper back in place together with the pads, the piston need to be pushed back a little. Use a G-clamp with the brake pads as shown in the picture. Caliper in place and tightening the mounting bolt. Done for the driver side. Done for the passenger side. Fit in the rims and tighten the lug nuts nicely. RED Calipers... woohoo!! Closer look of the RED caliper...

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Dec 29 2006 DIY Install HID Conversion Kit http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1133192.html My friend bought a set of HID conversion it from zth and installed it into his Toyota Vios. Then he found that the glare is too much no matter how he adjust the angle of the headlights. Even eyelids also can't help to solve the problem. So he decided to sell it off. Then he offered me a good price for this kit. The installation took me about 2 hours as there are some wiring mistakes i have done earlier as the wiring of this HID kit was modified earlier. I took my time slowly to hide the ballast n wiring to get a neat installation. The results, very bright headlights!!! Fine-tuned 3 times to get the correct angle. The best thing about this kit is the high-beam which works like a normal bulb's low-beam which is quite useful at road-blocks. Hehe... Friday 10 November 2006: My friend bought a set of HID conversion it from zth and installed it into his Toyota Vios. Then he found that the glare is too much no matter how he adjust the angle of the headlights. Even eyelids also can't help to solve the problem. So he decided to sell it off. Then he offered me a good price for this kit. The installation took me about 2 hours as there are some wiring mistakes i have done earlier as the wiring of this HID kit was modified earlier. I took my time slowly to hide the ballast n wiring to get a neat installation. The results, very bright headlights!!! Fine-tuned 3 times to get the correct angle. The best thing about this kit is the high-beam which works like a normal bulb's low-beam which is quite useful at road-blocks. Hehe...

The HID kit in the box The components for one side. The ballast and the bulb as well as the wiring The H4 high-low bulb. HID low-beam bulb, conventional high-beam bulb The ballast Left mounting location Right mounting location Right mounting location Left mounting location Ballast mounted in place Ballast mounted in place The adjusted beam level and lightspread. The real scenario looks not that bright at the concentrated Top = high-beam, bottom = low-beam (Picture taken at -1 (under) exposure with Canon IXUS430)

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Nov 10 2006 DIY Camera Mount http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1067723.html I'm currently doing my final year project which need to capture the road video for image processing. I have been looking around for material to fabricate this camera mount. At last the hardware shop owner suggested me to use iron bar.... Well.. i think it is not a bad idea as it is quite easy to use and able to make many things out of it and the price is cheap too. Tuesday 29 August 2006: I'm currently doing my final year project which need to capture the road video for image processing. I have been looking around for material to fabricate this camera mount. At last the hardware shop owner suggested me to use iron bar.... Well.. i think it is not a bad idea as it is quite easy to use and able to make many things out of it and the price is cheap too.

Iron bar and U-Bolt Prototype bracket Prototype bracket Testing the position Testing the position Paint stripped and weld the nuts onto the bar Sprayed with DPI paints Sprayed with DPI paints Camera mount installed with camera mounted... Recording...

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Aug 29 2006 DIY Install Super Pro PU Bush for Front Anti-Roll Bar http://khguan.fotopic.net/c1036452.html The OEM ARB bushed are already harden and I think its time to replace them. So decided to try out the Polyurethane bushes from Super Pro. Got them at a good price too!! Well, my car front suspension has been lowered not long ago and I noticed the ARB bushes have deformed badly due to the slanted angle of the ARB bcos of the lowered ride height. For this installation, I have shortened the bush spacer by approximately 10mm each side. However, after installation, I noticed the ARB angle is not much different due to the thicker PU bush. Just imagine how it would be if I did not shorten the spacer. Installation of these bushes are fairly simple and does not require to remove the wheels for installation. The results after the installation was quite obvious. The steering response seems very responsive and the steering seems lighter. Strange... but i like that!! Hahaha!! Sunday 30 July 2006: The OEM ARB bushed are already harden and I think its time to replace them. So decided to try out the Polyurethane bushes from Super Pro. Got them at a good price too!! Well, my car front suspension has been lowered not long ago and I noticed the ARB bushes have deformed badly due to the slanted angle of the ARB bcos of the lowered ride height. For this installation, I have shortened the bush spacer by approximately 10mm each side. However, after installation, I noticed the ARB angle is not much different due to the thicker PU bush. Just imagine how it would be if I did not shorten the spacer. Installation of these bushes are fairly simple and does not require to remove the wheels for installation. The results after the installation was quite obvious. The steering response seems very responsive and the steering seems lighter. Strange... but i like that!! Hahaha!!

The OEM bush assembly. Notice the deformed rubber bushes. Super Pro PU Bush for Wira ARB Mark the spacer for cutting. Cut the bush spacer with a cutting disc on a grinder. Touch up the finishing using a grinding disc, round and flat file. A car jack for assistance during removing and installing the bushes will ease the job. Tightening job in process... OEM vs PU bush These are the tools needed for the entire installation with modification to the bush spacer. Deformed OEM bushes.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sun Jul 30 2006 DIY Adjust Rear Drum Brake Level http://khguan.fotopic.net/c985012.html Brake pads will wear off over time... for rear drums brakes, we need to adjust the level so that we do not have to pull the handbrake so high to get the car to remain stationary. This is a simple brake service that can be done with simple tools and takes little time to complete. You'll just need: 1. Lug nut remover + extension pipe(optional) 2. Car jack (preferably hydraulic type) 3. Philips Screwdriver 4. Flat head screwdriver 5. Hammer The braking performance will be improved after this service is done. Nose dive will be reduced too during braking. Thursday 8 June 2006: Brake pads will wear off over time... for rear drums brakes, we need to adjust the level so that we do not have to pull the handbrake so high to get the car to remain stationary. This is a simple brake service that can be done with simple tools and takes little time to complete. You'll just need: 1. Lug nut remover + extension pipe(optional) 2. Car jack (preferably hydraulic type) 3. Philips Screwdriver 4. Flat head screwdriver 5. Hammer The braking performance will be improved after this service is done. Nose dive will be reduced too during braking.

Jack the car up a little with tyre stil touching the ground. Then loosen the lug nut. An extension pipe would be very useful here. First and foremost, engage into 1st gear. Jack up the car higher until the tyres lift off the ground. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel. Release the hand brake. Using a Philips screwdriver, turn anti-clockwise to loosen it while hitting it with a hammer as shown in pic. The screw will be loosen easily. Put in the screw. Turn the screw clockwise while hitting the screwdriver with hammer for tighter grip. Hit the hub with hammer on the upper part Then hit the bottom part... the hub will loosen by itself... then remove it. Pour out the brake dust collected inside. Use a flat head screwdriver to push the level tighter. Normally 3-5 clicks would do. Located the adjusting screw Fix the hub back in place. Turn the hub. If there is resistance, it means good. If it is loose n turns easily.. then adjust it tighter. Put the wheel back in place and tighten the lug nuts halfway. Lower tha jack and tighten the lug nuts again. Done!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu Jun 8 2006 DIY Oil Catch Tank with Petrol Filter http://khguan.fotopic.net/c976027.html A very simple DIY for people with light wallet. :p If u can't afford to get an proper OCT(Oil Catch Tank), then this DIY will be suitable for you. Maintenance will be easy, just replace the petrol filter when the oil inside is almost full. An OCT will catch the oil vapour and reduce the amount of oil vapour going into the combustion chamber. Therefore your engine runs cleaner without the engine oil vapour. For this DIY, i also modified the breather hose between the cam cover and the air filter intake hose with an air breather to prevent oil vapour going into the TB(throttle body). Wednesday 31 May 2006: A very simple DIY for people with light wallet. :p If u can't afford to get an proper OCT(Oil Catch Tank), then this DIY will be suitable for you. Maintenance will be easy, just replace the petrol filter when the oil inside is almost full. An OCT will catch the oil vapour and reduce the amount of oil vapour going into the combustion chamber. Therefore your engine runs cleaner without the engine oil vapour. For this DIY, i also modified the breather hose between the cam cover and the air filter intake hose with an air breather to prevent oil vapour going into the TB(throttle body).

Materials needed - You will need 4ft of fuel hose for this DIY First, we locate the PCV hose. Remove it. Hose connection and the cross section view of the petrol filter Find the possible mounting area. I chose the left one bcos easier to tie and to monitor the oil level OCT in place. Hoses tied with cable ties. OCT in place. Hoses tied with cable ties. Done with OCT. Locate breather hose. Remove it. Air breather n fuel hose Stuff the hose into the breather. Fuel hose and M8 stopper bolt. Done.. The breather hose fit onto the cam cover and block the rampipe hose. Engine Oil caught after a week. Engine oil caught after 2 months. Replaced with a new petrol filter while draining the old one to re-use.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed May 31 2006 DIY install WiSE Sideskirt http://khguan.fotopic.net/c976016.html Got this pair of skirt FOC from drexchan. He got himself a pair of original WiSE sideskirts for his car and dump this pair to me... :p THANX!! Previously these fibre sideskirts are fittted with rivets. So there were plenty of holes after taking outfrom Drex's car. I need to patch up the holes with putty n touch up the surface b4 the painting job. I DIY sprayed the skirts with DPI paint n RM5 clear coat. Installation was done with premium grade double sided tape at the car side body and rivets front n back. Wednesday 31 May 2006: Got this pair of skirt FOC from drexchan. He got himself a pair of original WiSE sideskirts for his car and dump this pair to me... :p THANX!! Previously these fibre sideskirts are fittted with rivets. So there were plenty of holes after taking outfrom Drex's car. I need to patch up the holes with putty n touch up the surface b4 the painting job. I DIY sprayed the skirts with DPI paint n RM5 clear coat. Installation was done with premium grade double sided tape at the car side body and rivets front n back.

Patched up skirts with putty DIY Sprayed with clear coat as well RM5 Clear Coat and DPI Automotive Paint Work in progress... Almost done for this side Steel Band... wat for?? Steel band for securing the bottom part... No skirts.. so plain... Rivet in front (with washer) Rivet at the back (with washer) Done!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed May 31 2006 DIY Install Ultra Racing 3-Point Fender Bar http://khguan.fotopic.net/c962070.html I bought this bar for some time ago but never had the time to install it. Finally i got it installed myself. Removing the fender is quite troublesome as there are 11 mounting bolts/nut all together for one side. Well... after ths installation and test drive, i'm very satisfied with the installation as well as the improvement in handling on my car. Going over bumps feels more solid too. The hard part bout installation is the door position. Thursday 18 May 2006: I bought this bar for some time ago but never had the time to install it. Finally i got it installed myself. Removing the fender is quite troublesome as there are 11 mounting bolts/nut all together for one side. Well... after ths installation and test drive, i'm very satisfied with the installation as well as the improvement in handling on my car. Going over bumps feels more solid too. The hard part bout installation is the door position.

3 mounting bolts on top One hidden bolt. Scrap off the dirt on the bolt b4 you can loosen it. Another bolt... more hidden bolts... Remove the signal light for more mounting bolt n nuts. Entire fender removed Place the fender aside. Painted fender bars, hung to dry under the sun. Fender bar in place... yes correct one.. Support the door with a jack so that it will not drop one side when the hinges are loosen. Jack supported door ease the installation with a center hole for the bolt to fit in. Fit the bottom bolts 1st... do not tighten 1st. Then fit in the top bolts as well. Then only tighten them... very tightly. Drill 8mm holes for the M8 bolts to go into them. This drill bit cost me RM13!! 8mm holes... Fit in the M8 bolts n nuts provided with the packaging. I added a washer in front so that the bolt will not scratch the paint on the bar. Done for the left side. The other side with fender removed. CAI and horn Do the same thing here. Door support. Done also on this side... Original UR 3-Point Fender Bar with serial number in nice packaging.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu May 18 2006 Episode 1 - DIY Port n Polish WiSE Extractor http://khguan.fotopic.net/c960690.html I got this extractor from a forum friend in hometown. To him, this is an old junk, i wanted to buy from him, but he got his new stainless steel extractor at a dirt cheap price. So instead of selling it, he gave it to me. Treated him a drink n had a good chat with him. Well the extractor have been used a year and kept a year b4 it reach my hand. So I need to remove the rust b4 installation. Wednesday 17 May 2006: I got this extractor from a forum friend in hometown. To him, this is an old junk, i wanted to buy from him, but he got his new stainless steel extractor at a dirt cheap price. So instead of selling it, he gave it to me. Treated him a drink n had a good chat with him. Well the extractor have been used a year and kept a year b4 it reach my hand. So I need to remove the rust b4 installation.

Wira SE stock extractor OMG.. look at the rust... been exposed to air for more than a year Wow.. look at the rust again... n the welding job... who did that? This side also.. ugly welding job... blocking the airway... Oxygen sensor mounting hole... Rear joint.. also rusty.. Wira SE stock extractor Start rubbing with sand paper... rust powder coming off very slowly... After sanding for a while... i noticed metal shavings from factory... WTF??!! More metal shaving... They never touch up at the factory?? Ahh.. this is much faster... i like this.. but have to be careful with the grinding.. Grind Grind Grind... Don't use these.. they are crap!!! See... it starts to wear off... Real crap... the whole piece of stone wore off and then broke.. wat a joke.. Stone grind job... no good... Top view... look at the crushed pipe end... sigh... Porting with a handtool - a round file... much more effective man!! Ported n Polished... Polished rear joint.. Compare 3 - It look better in real when looking at 45 degree angle.. Compare 2 - closer look.. airway enlarged Compare 1 - look much better eh?

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed May 17 2006 Episode 2 - DIY Install WiSE Extractor http://khguan.fotopic.net/c960680.html After the port n polish process done earlier, the WiSE extractor is now ready to be installed. The entire installation was assisted by Drexchan. Thank god he helped me, else i would be having hell of a time to install this extractor. Installation was completed smoothly and the satisfaction was great!! Lastly, thanx to Drexchan's help!! *** Updated with Dyno comparison chart *** Wednesday 17 May 2006: After the port n polish process done earlier, the WiSE extractor is now ready to be installed. The entire installation was assisted by Drexchan. Thank god he helped me, else i would be having hell of a time to install this extractor. Installation was completed smoothly and the satisfaction was great!! Lastly, thanx to Drexchan's help!! *** Updated with Dyno comparison chart ***

Exhaust gaskets - got them quite cheap from sparepart shop Remove the cover first for easier access to mounting nuts This is my new toy. OEM 4-1 manifold Extractor Cover removed, broke one bolt... Heavy Duty Wrench with extension pipe Mounting nuts are so tight! Loosen the nuts with 12mm heavy duty wrench. Drexchan in action... Mounting joint - 17mm & 14mm bolts Loosen bolts Me in action :P The famous deadman pose... :D Anaconda under the car?? Extractor lower mounting. Yeah.. that's my finger with gloves on it.. Loosen lower mounting bolt OEM vs WiSE extractor OEM vs WiSE extractor (close-up) OEM vs WiSE extractor (rear joint) Extractor removed clean the contact surface with scrapper Extractor removed clean the contact surface with scrapper Look at the oil leak... this is common for an old car.. Transfer the oxygen sensor to the WiSE Extractor Two thumbs up by the installers!! Look at the gap between the extractor and the fan.. OMG OMG... so close!! At last, nicely installed into my car... woohoo!!! The Dyno chart comparison before n after installing the WiSE extractor. Increased HP n Torque at 4.5K-6K RPM. Wonderful!! My car injected with a little Nitrous Oxide on the air filter rampipe. Look at that!! Extra 20 Horses!!! woohoo!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed May 17 2006 DIY Replace Front Door Power Window Motor & Project Dynamatt http://khguan.fotopic.net/c921830.html I bought 2 pieces of Dynamatt and have been keeping them for a few weeks b4 i managed to find time to install them... Since the power windows' motors are getting weaker.. I think its a one-shot job la... enjoy... Results after dynamatt-ing.... wow!! midbass improved so much!! my midbass can work almost like a subwoofer!! Thursday 13 April 2006: I bought 2 pieces of Dynamatt and have been keeping them for a few weeks b4 i managed to find time to install them... Since the power windows' motors are getting weaker.. I think its a one-shot job la... enjoy... Results after dynamatt-ing.... wow!! midbass improved so much!! my midbass can work almost like a subwoofer!!

This is left side door.. Cleaned n ready for dynamatt... If you are wondering what's inside my door... this is the answer (Black - SoundBlok Suppresion pads, Shiny - bitumen strips) The actual size of dynamatt... Was trying to soften it with the sunlight.. but i find it easier to peel off the brown paper without soften it.. I used hot air gun to soften it after i fully stick it on the door... Left door done... (1st time job - not bad huh??) Remove screws as in circles and arrows We need to remove the rainsheet. Remove the 5 screws... Rainsheet removed.. Did you notice the bitumen strips?? There are some rainsheet black sticky stuff too.. Bitumen strips removed by bare-hand-peeling and sticky stuff removed too... Put down the window glass until the screw position same as the hole as in picture... Remove them to release the glass.. Remove the glass from the door follow the path in ordered numbers... Place it somewhere safe. I place it on my car roof on a piece of Insulflex. Now we remove the entire power window bracket and motor construction. Remove those 10mm bolts as in circles. Power window bracket n stuff comes out this way... Motor replaced.. Simple job. U may need to change the rubber bush as well.. Sorry, I forgot to take picture when it is dismantled.. :p OK. Now put back into position.. This is my idea to protect the midbass speakers from getting in contact with rain water. I think this will reduce the bass a little... We'll see how it goes... Once done.. project dynamatt begins.. Lots of holes need to cut for mounting screws and holes.. This is completed right door.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu Apr 13 2006 DIY Replace Valve Cover Gasket http://khguan.fotopic.net/c900753.html One fine morning i was taking out the spark plugs to service them...then suddenly i saw the plug's body is very oily... after some check ups... then found out it was the gasket leaking already... no wonder the oil consumption is kinda bad... after 3000km of oil change... the engine oil will go down half at the dipstick... So went to sparepart shop to get a new one n start the replacement... Cheap replacement n easy job!!! Friday 24 March 2006: One fine morning i was taking out the spark plugs to service them...then suddenly i saw the plug's body is very oily... after some check ups... then found out it was the gasket leaking already... no wonder the oil consumption is kinda bad... after 3000km of oil change... the engine oil will go down half at the dipstick... So went to sparepart shop to get a new one n start the replacement... Cheap replacement n easy job!!!

Replacement gasket - RM8 from sparepart shop Loosen n remove mounting bolts with a rachet wrench Notice the yellow rectangle... Oil leak area... very bad condition.. Closer look of oil leak.. Valve cover opened... Wipe the gasket clean with paper towel or tissue paper... Pry out the gasket with a flat head screwdriver Hardened old gasket.. anyone want to use it as number plate frame?? :p New n soft gasket... Fit in new gasket... hit the parts which are not fitting in properly with the screwdriver as in the picture... New gasket fitted in nicely... Tip: Fit from the center part to get a more accurate fit... Fit in all the screws n DO NOT tighten any of them 1st.. start tightening once all 6 screw are in place... Tighten until the force is CONSTANT.. then STOP Fit the throtle cable mounting bracket in place n plug in the hoses.. DONE!! Identify the all the bolts n hoses to be removed 1st

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Mar 24 2006 DIY install Putra PU Lip http://khguan.fotopic.net/c891451.html Thanx to de flood near my house in the Petronas station one fine saturday morning... there was a hole in the water and I cant see it... and with my lowered front... I drove over that stupid hole and there goes my old lips... So i got a new PU lip from my neighbour and sent to shop for spraying before installing it by myself... Wednesday 15 March 2006: Thanx to de flood near my house in the Petronas station one fine saturday morning... there was a hole in the water and I cant see it... and with my lowered front... I drove over that stupid hole and there goes my old lips... So i got a new PU lip from my neighbour and sent to shop for spraying before installing it by myself...

Jack up the car high enough to access the lower part. Thigns needed : 2 tonne jack, Hand drill, Drill Bit, driver bit and Painted lip. Attach both sides of lip 1st. My car is smilling :)) I used a M6 bolt temporarily to hold the lip Drill the lip bottom part but not till the bumper Screw in a long screw (2 I used 7 or 9 screws if not mistaken Done.. no screws seen from outside Put down the jack and check the workmanship Old plastic screws were damaged. So i got new screws for it. RM2 a piece New plastic screw in place

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed Mar 15 2006 DIY Replace Speaker Foam http://khguan.fotopic.net/c827440.html After installing my old pioneer CD player into my bro's car... so i began to test the sound and then i noticed that the rear speakers sounded weird n crappy... Then i found out the foam already became like brittle like biscuit already... :D so i took it out and get new speaker foam to "renew" it again... Saturday 14 January 2006: After installing my old pioneer CD player into my bro's car... so i began to test the sound and then i noticed that the rear speakers sounded weird n crappy... Then i found out the foam already became like brittle like biscuit already... :D so i took it out and get new speaker foam to "renew" it again...

Old.. dusty n crappy sounding speaker remove the ring.. and then clean the degraded foam... cleaned with spirit as well.. now ready for new foam to fit in... cleaning in progress... with a blade... cleaning under the cone.. scrapping with metal ruler.. Fit new foam in place.. align nicely.. Speaker Glue for speakers adhesion purposes... apply glue generously.. Apply more glue... let it spill out a little... dun worry about the white color Now apply glue to the ring.. and stick it back in place... Apply some glue at the side to hold it better... Place the speaker upside down for some pressure on the glued area.. Leave it overnight... Glue cured after a day... glue turns to transparent.. tested n they worked well!! Proton OEM Clarion 6 Proton OEM Clarion 6

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Jan 14 2006 DIY Cockroach Trap - Made of Plexiglass (Perspex) http://khguan.fotopic.net/c810086.html My rented house got lots of stuff... WHen stuff are a lot.. "Siu Keong" (cockroaches) will come n stay with u... This is not a new technology invented by me... This technology was used long long time ago... about 15-20 years back... and i was trying to find one of these in many places but failed... my dad had one in his workshop... so there comes the idea for this new design fully transparent cockroach trap!! Friday 30 December 2005: My rented house got lots of stuff... WHen stuff are a lot.. "Siu Keong" (cockroaches) will come n stay with u... This is not a new technology invented by me... This technology was used long long time ago... about 15-20 years back... and i was trying to find one of these in many places but failed... my dad had one in his workshop... so there comes the idea for this new design fully transparent cockroach trap!!

New design - fully transparent cockroach trap... This is wat de Upper lid is removable for disposing the dead cockroaches... n too put in new food.. :) Siu Keong enters as my finger's path... and then lets party!! :D got one siu keong!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Dec 30 2005 DIY Boot Floor Board http://khguan.fotopic.net/c806091.html Originally... my wira came with a stock OEM fibre board as the rear boot floor board which was just enough to cover de spare tyre compartment... Due to excessive weight on top of it... it went out of shape n have poor support... So at last i DIYed this floor board after looking at some after market floor boards from audio shops which cost RM180 per piece.... wow!! And the carpet material was not my type... so this is my very own custom made rear boot floor board... Monday 26 December 2005: Originally... my wira came with a stock OEM fibre board as the rear boot floor board which was just enough to cover de spare tyre compartment... Due to excessive weight on top of it... it went out of shape n have poor support... So at last i DIYed this floor board after looking at some after market floor boards from audio shops which cost RM180 per piece.... wow!! And the carpet material was not my type... so this is my very own custom made rear boot floor board...

Bought 3/8 1st... measure boot area with cardboard... Lay cardboard onto plywood.. draw the outline... Then cut with a jigsaw.. This cheap jigsaw from Tesco already can get the job done!! Halfway done... a little bit more.. Cut already... SHIT!! cant fit in... Board is slightly bigger... so cant fit in.. so need to trim with grinder with sand paper... Trimmed.. n cut a hole in the middle for the The other side of the At last.. can fit in nicely... Carpeted with contact adhesive (Dunlop Glue) Additional The other side of the board... Staples for better grip... Done.. sideview Done rearview... Again... the New version of my floorboard with another door to remove the jack.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Mon Dec 26 2005 DIY Plexiglass HU Compartment with LED http://khguan.fotopic.net/c781324.html I had a piece of scrap acrylic plastic which is known as Plexiglass or Perspex measuring about 1ft x 1.5ft x 4mm thick, thanx to a fren who picked it up for me... So my another fren also had a same piece... he wanted to use it to cover the hole under his HU... then something came into my mind... n this is the idea that i have made it to reality... 1st time playing with acrylic plastics!! Friday 2 December 2005: I had a piece of scrap acrylic plastic which is known as Plexiglass or Perspex measuring about 1ft x 1.5ft x 4mm thick, thanx to a fren who picked it up for me... So my another fren also had a same piece... he wanted to use it to cover the hole under his HU... then something came into my mind... n this is the idea that i have made it to reality... 1st time playing with acrylic plastics!!

Measure n cut the plexiglass into pieces Cut with this special tool - Plastic Cutter Tint the plexiglass with scrap dark tinted film Glue them together Almost done... Cut out the face frame from a piece of car number plate black plastic Prepare mountings for LEDs LEDs glued to the mounting.. Glue the mounting with LED onto the case Done! Installed in to my car.. with non-slip mat Lights up at night!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Dec 2 2005 DIY Cleaning + Re-Oiling K&N Air FIlter http://khguan.fotopic.net/c768408.html Normally most ppl send their performance air filters to speedworks for cleaning for RM8.40 or just buy a K&N air filter cleaning kit n re-oiling kit at about RM70 and RM40 each. Well.. i found out that Brothers in Kelana Jaya is selling the KW air filter Cleaning n ReOil kit for just RM18.50. So now i can DIY it at a lower cost already. No more driving to speedworks just to get the air filter cleaned. Saves my time too. Sunday 20 November 2005: Normally most ppl send their performance air filters to speedworks for cleaning for RM8.40 or just buy a K&N air filter cleaning kit n re-oiling kit at about RM70 and RM40 each. Well.. i found out that Brothers in Kelana Jaya is selling the KW air filter Cleaning n ReOil kit for just RM18.50. So now i can DIY it at a lower cost already. No more driving to speedworks just to get the air filter cleaned. Saves my time too.

My dirty K&N air filter My dirty K&N air filter Look at the sand removed from the filter.. the sand put together!! KW Air Filter Cleaning n ReOiling kit Brush off loose dirt with a bristle brush Spray the cleaning fluid onto the filter until it is fully covered with it. Let it soak for 15-20mins Use hose water to rinse it, from the clean side to the dirty side. Plenty of water. Let it stand at this position for draining the water after rinsing it. Water slowly draining, you will be amazed by the amount of water it can hold. Let it dry under a fan. Filter element is dried. Time to re-oil. Re-oil following the oiling path for both sides evenly. Let the oil absorb into the filter element for about 15-20mins. Air filter oil absorbed evenly. Notice the darker color. Ready for use..

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sun Nov 20 2005 DIY RCA Cables - Belden 1694A http://khguan.fotopic.net/c732467.html In order to save money for good RCA cables i decided to DIY my very own RCA cables... And it is my luck to come across some used Belden Video cables in Pasar Road selling in loose quantity at a very cheap price... RM2 per piece (about 2m or so)... so i picked 2 pcs of them n bought 4 pcs of good RCA connectors which cost RM6 a piece... the connectors are much much more expensive than de cables.. haha... the cables are cleaned using spirit and then stripped the ends n soldered nicely to the connectors... voila!! a pair of good RCA cables.. Wednesday 19 October 2005: In order to save money for good RCA cables i decided to DIY my very own RCA cables... And it is my luck to come across some used Belden Video cables in Pasar Road selling in loose quantity at a very cheap price... RM2 per piece (about 2m or so)... so i picked 2 pcs of them n bought 4 pcs of good RCA connectors which cost RM6 a piece... the connectors are much much more expensive than de cables.. haha... the cables are cleaned using spirit and then stripped the ends n soldered nicely to the connectors... voila!! a pair of good RCA cables..

Belden 1694A video cable Belden 1694A video cable Two different colors Nicely soldered to connector Connector crimped nicely onto braided jacket Nicely soldered to connector 2 pairs of RCA cables Thick connector plates Completed Belden RCA cables

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed Oct 19 2005 Mohawk Red 12 Subwoofer Upgrade - Custom made sealed enclosure http://khguan.fotopic.net/c680883.html After using dual 10" free-air subwoofers... its time to change to something diff... with a limited budget.. i chose the Mohawk Red 12 sub for de bass necessities for my paliah ICE setup... This collection shows the process of making de subwoofer box.... Nice workmanship from Mega Sound, Subang... Tuesday 6 September 2005: After using dual 10" free-air subwoofers... its time to change to something diff... with a limited budget.. i chose the Mohawk Red 12 sub for de bass necessities for my paliah ICE setup... This collection shows the process of making de subwoofer box.... Nice workmanship from Mega Sound, Subang...

One inch thick MDF board!!! MDF board cut and sifu applying glue.. Putting the pieces together... Align properly.. nice worksmanship... another sifu applying rubber glue on the inner side of the box... Drawing holes outlines for speaker connectors.. Drill 1st... Then cut de holes.. Fitting the rear board... Use staples to hold it in place b4 drilling holes for screws... Wah... so many screws!! GOOD!! Sifu doing The enclosure ready for carpeting.. inner side sprayed a little with black spray.. Sifu spraying some glue on de carpet n box... Another Carpeting job almost done.. Good job! Fitting in my sub liao.. fuuh!! Connectors i bought.. with golden connectors.. with gold banana jacks.. Bridged to amp.. series connection (4ohm) Overall look... Still plain.. without any grill yet... Customising a plexiglass grill for it soon!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Sep 6 2005 DIY modified Short Shifter http://khguan.fotopic.net/c639577.html After checking the website for some time, i have gather enough information to modify my car original gear shifter. I have been using an aftermarket short shifter for a period of time. Now its time to use my own DIY short shifter... Wednesday 3 August 2005: After checking the website for some time, i have gather enough information to modify my car original gear shifter. I have been using an aftermarket short shifter for a period of time. Now its time to use my own DIY short shifter...

Original SHifter in place Original SHifter in place Original shifter on left - Modified shifter right(raised Pivot point) Top original - Bottom modified Top original - Bottom modified Aftermarket short shifter vs DIY modified shifter (Pivot point is slightly higher) - The feel is more or less the same. minor cuttings to the plastic and some grindings need to be done on the shifter itself for free movements due to raised pivot point Modified shifter (raised Pivot point) Modified shifter (raised Pivot point) New console cover - made of sofa cushion material

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Wed Aug 3 2005 Brake Cylinder Stopper (BCS) http://khguan.fotopic.net/c616168.html This idea came from one of my VS customers... He shown me his car Accord Euro R with a custom made BCS which is made from aircraft aloy... He asked me to make one for my car... So i thought over it... after some R&D.. well here comes my version of BCS custom made for Wira!! yahoo!! now it is for sale.... 2 of my frens tested it and their feedbacks are good!! Friday 15 July 2005: This idea came from one of my VS customers... He shown me his car Accord Euro R with a custom made BCS which is made from aircraft aloy... He asked me to make one for my car... So i thought over it... after some R&D.. well here comes my version of BCS custom made for Wira!! yahoo!! now it is for sale.... 2 of my frens tested it and their feedbacks are good!!

10mm nut view from outside Brake Cylinder Stopper - BCS BCS in place BCS Installation guide

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Jul 15 2005 DIY LED Bulb http://khguan.fotopic.net/c591974.html this idea was initially inspired by a friend in the forum... so i had some ideas to convert the normal bulb into a LED bulb... anyway... this is an expensive n time consuming DIY... but it is a good DIY!! Saturday 25 June 2005: this idea was initially inspired by a friend in the forum... so i had some ideas to convert the normal bulb into a LED bulb... anyway... this is an expensive n time consuming DIY... but it is a good DIY!!

8 pcs of LED soldered on a strip board soldering job.. carefuly positioned n soldered.. halfway done... already can light up using 12V input tada!!! LED bulbs!! white lights!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Jun 25 2005 DIY Engine Oil Change http://khguan.fotopic.net/c584742.html For those who likes to DIY or just wanto save some money n time, u can DIY oil change. It is not hard at all... U just need some proper tools.. dats it... Only takes about 30mins to complete... Tools needed: 1. 2 tonne jack 2. 17mm wrench 3. Oil filter wrench/opener 4. Oil container Sunday 19 June 2005: For those who likes to DIY or just wanto save some money n time, u can DIY oil change. It is not hard at all... U just need some proper tools.. dats it... Only takes about 30mins to complete... Tools needed: 1. 2 tonne jack 2. 17mm wrench 3. Oil filter wrench/opener 4. Oil container

Tools needed, engine oil n genuine filter 1. Jack up ur car.. make sure it is firm n steady.. Remove oil cap as well... 2. Place container under the oil pan n remove the bolt 3. Drain oil completely 4. Place container under oilf filter n remove the filter with a oil filter wrench/opener 5. Apply a thin film of engine oil onto new oil filter's gasket 6. Screw in new oil filter in place until tight... Use your hand only.. 7. Put back the bolt n tighten it.. Make sure it is really tight, else it will leak... 8. Pour in new engine oil... approximately 3/4 of the oil in the bottle... Check the level n fill until enough. Place the cap in place n done!!

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sun Jun 19 2005 Rear Anti-Roll Bar (ARB) from Wira 1.6 http://khguan.fotopic.net/c560307.html This is a complete ARB kit took from wira 1.6 which includes the bar itself, armlinks, and the lower arms... However, during installation... the armlinks are already worn-out. So i decided to replace with new ones to avoid problems later. The instalation is kinda expensive due to the algnment labourcharge. Overall, i'm very satisfied with the performance when taking corners. When slow (around 40kmh), almost no bodyroll and when fast... bodyroll is minimal... the feel is good n very confident when taking corners... even changing lanes... 2 thumbs up!! Tuesday 31 May 2005: This is a complete ARB kit took from wira 1.6 which includes the bar itself, armlinks, and the lower arms... However, during installation... the armlinks are already worn-out. So i decided to replace with new ones to avoid problems later. The instalation is kinda expensive due to the algnment labourcharge. Overall, i'm very satisfied with the performance when taking corners. When slow (around 40kmh), almost no bodyroll and when fast... bodyroll is minimal... the feel is good n very confident when taking corners... even changing lanes... 2 thumbs up!!

ARB dismantled.. cleaned and resprayed lower arms not sprayed.. just cleaned with thinner mechanic working on my car... working fast.. but very rough handling on those tools.. Everything properly installed.. You can see the bracket, bar, armlink n ower arm ARB to the left Right side Left side mounting bracket.. just plug and play Wira 1.5 lower-arms (without ARB bracket) Wira 1.5 lower-arms (without ARB bracket) Half-cut rear ARB with real additional lower arms provided since those connected arms are cut left armlink with bracket right armlink with bracket - rusty

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue May 31 2005 New DIY projects up to MAY 2005 http://khguan.fotopic.net/c545821.html Long time already since i didnt post new pictures here. Heres what i have done for the past few weeks. Enjoy!! note: This collection of pics contains newer and miscellaneous stuff.. Thursday 19 May 2005: Long time already since i didnt post new pictures here. Heres what i have done for the past few weeks. Enjoy!! note: This collection of pics contains newer and miscellaneous stuff..

in-bumper glow side underglow lights covered with aluminium sheet in-bumper light glowing in-bumper light glowing Satria SE grill - DIY sprayed Satria SE grill - DIY sprayed underground in-bumper light connector lug and clear water hose protection gearknob - sprayed flat black normal TT location Spark plugs used for 2 years(41,xxxkm) spark plugs serviced n cleaned spark plugs Side-gapped after using about 1 week after service

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu May 19 2005 NEW C-Ground customised grounding kit http://khguan.fotopic.net/c504769.html after using the Eneos GK for some time.. i found dat the cables are rather messy on my engine bay.. so i decided to change to c-ground customised grounding kit.. so dat i can get a perfect fit cables in my engine bay... looks much better with all 4 awg cables.. and nicer lugs.. :) i felt my car engine performance is smoother after installing the kit.. other things like brightness of headlights, ICE, etc remains remains good since i was using de Eneos grounding kit. anyway... c-ground grounding kits is GOOD STUFF!! Sunday 17 April 2005: after using the Eneos GK for some time.. i found dat the cables are rather messy on my engine bay.. so i decided to change to c-ground customised grounding kit.. so dat i can get a perfect fit cables in my engine bay... looks much better with all 4 awg cables.. and nicer lugs.. :) i felt my car engine performance is smoother after installing the kit.. other things like brightness of headlights, ICE, etc remains remains good since i was using de Eneos grounding kit. anyway... c-ground grounding kits is GOOD STUFF!!

my engine bay.. new look!! body (distribution point) n firewall grounding front bulk head n engine head distributor n alternator

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sun Apr 17 2005 AutoGauge Voltmeter - DIY Custom Made Mounting Bracket http://khguan.fotopic.net/c472470.html Bought a voltmeter to install in my car.. but i realised dat the meter do not come with mounting bracket.. so i went arounf to look for one... but it is damn expensive.. rm55 for metal bracket n rm45 for plactic cup... So i decided to DIY with steel band... total material cost cost me less than RM2.00.. spent half a day to complete the installation including wiring... Tuesday 22 March 2005: Bought a voltmeter to install in my car.. but i realised dat the meter do not come with mounting bracket.. so i went arounf to look for one... but it is damn expensive.. rm55 for metal bracket n rm45 for plactic cup... So i decided to DIY with steel band... total material cost cost me less than RM2.00.. spent half a day to complete the installation including wiring...

custom made bracket completed look! it can stand!! good!! some rejected lower bracket from trial n error.. nite view in my car closer meter view another wan got reflection... looks like got another meter outside :P now u can c de mounting bracket closer view of mounting bracket. side view... close view of bracket.. meter covered wit black matt sticker.. bracket sprayed black.

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Mar 22 2005 How to Charge Up n Mount my DIY VS http://khguan.fotopic.net/c451636.html since so many ppl asked me how to install me DIY VS... ok lar.. got some pics here.. hope they help.. actually simple stuff onli... :) Friday 4 March 2005: since so many ppl asked me how to install me DIY VS... ok lar.. got some pics here.. hope they help.. actually simple stuff onli... :)

this is de voltage illustration without VS Charging up de caps the red line is stabilised voltage with VS.. done! so simple... ;) TT location map normal trading location at UPM Serdang these are de steel band n superlon u tie them like this... n install beside de battery.. there got a plastic with a hole.. later wanto adjust de bracket.. to mount it nicer.. n straight.. so de idea is there.. u can be more creative to make better n nicer mountings :) New and improved version of VS

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Mar 4 2005 Accident on 3rd March 2005 http://khguan.fotopic.net/c451343.html my car suddenly start to skid shen taking a long right turn just b4 UPM toll.. my left side of my car.. hit de right side of de divider.. road condition was wet n oily.. Friday 4 March 2005: my car suddenly start to skid shen taking a long right turn just b4 UPM toll.. my left side of my car.. hit de right side of de divider.. road condition was wet n oily..

this is how de accident happen.. no other cars involved dat indian guy skidded n fell down when drex try to slow down the traffic cars coming into the corner.. very dangerous this is wat my car done to de grass my wheel bengkok :( my car facing oncoming traffic closer wiew..my car cant move already more cars coming my car drive to a side.. with de tyre locked up my rim also gone.. :( tow truck doing his job towed lets go... my baby.. Serdang tow truck.. charged me rm50 for towing to workshop departing ... n taking turn... my last pose for drex.. anyway.. thanx drex mucho!! after repair.. my rims cover look like shit.. replaced lower arm, axle, dog-bone n bearing my tyres after driving with de wheel locked-up for about 50 meters my dented rim - for souvenir badly dented

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Mar 4 2005 DIY Smoked Headlights http://khguan.fotopic.net/c442964.html In order to have my headlights look like Wira SE... i dun wanto change my headlights.. so how? i do it de DIY way.. yeah!! DIY rules!! DIYed using semi-transparent stickers.. got it from brother for RM8 a pc for bout 1feet x 1.5feet.. takes 2 hours to complete (looks like most of my DIY took 2 hours to complete... :P) so satisfied when done it!! yahoo!! Thursday 24 February 2005: In order to have my headlights look like Wira SE... i dun wanto change my headlights.. so how? i do it de DIY way.. yeah!! DIY rules!! DIYed using semi-transparent stickers.. got it from brother for RM8 a pc for bout 1feet x 1.5feet.. takes 2 hours to complete (looks like most of my DIY took 2 hours to complete... :P) so satisfied when done it!! yahoo!!

front view dog view closer view tinted emblem left human view right human view with flash

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Thu Feb 24 2005 Ultra Racing Strut Bar - DIY Install http://khguan.fotopic.net/c441252.html This is a Ultra Racing Strut Bar.. i got it from ninja_iga@Stanley for rm180. He taught me how to install it.. but later i noticed dat got a problem... got 2 things blocking de way of de Strut bar..de alarm siren n something in de middle i think is a pressure switch... so have to modify a bit. took 2 hours to install.. really tiring Tuesday 22 February 2005: This is a Ultra Racing Strut Bar.. i got it from ninja_iga@Stanley for rm180. He taught me how to install it.. but later i noticed dat got a problem... got 2 things blocking de way of de Strut bar..de alarm siren n something in de middle i think is a pressure switch... so have to modify a bit. took 2 hours to install.. really tiring

engine bay look have to take out dat metal thing to ketuk n bend it.. doing without proper tools is very hard n tiring siren located beside de water tank these 2 thing kacau lar.. waste my time to modify de mountings

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Feb 22 2005 DIY Braided Brake Hose - Very easy n cheap!!! http://khguan.fotopic.net/c441233.html i got this idea from DIY king from ZTH johnsonlam... i did this DIY job for de front n rear brake hose.. when braking under high speed.. de feel is better with better bite... anyway this job is very simple to do but takes time to tie de cable ties one by one... took me about 2hours to complete... need to take out de tyres Tuesday 22 February 2005: i got this idea from DIY king from ZTH johnsonlam... i did this DIY job for de front n rear brake hose.. when braking under high speed.. de feel is better with better bite... anyway this job is very simple to do but takes time to tie de cable ties one by one... took me about 2hours to complete... need to take out de tyres

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Tue Feb 22 2005 Grounding Kit http://khguan.fotopic.net/c438223.html this is a Grounding Kit from Eneos.. RM58. although it looks nice.. but Made in China.. ok lar. can use also... installation is DIY... took me bout 1 hour to do it... wat i get fo this thing is : 1. brighter lights at nite 2. no dimming of lights when idle 3. get heavier bass from ICE 4. engine bay looks a bit more colorful :P Sunday 20 February 2005: this is a Grounding Kit from Eneos.. RM58. although it looks nice.. but Made in China.. ok lar. can use also... installation is DIY... took me bout 1 hour to do it... wat i get fo this thing is : 1. brighter lights at nite 2. no dimming of lights when idle 3. get heavier bass from ICE 4. engine bay looks a bit more colorful :P

how it look in my engine bay battery terminal... scratched it when installing.. 1st time mah lower left n far top.. alternator.. just add a nut distributor... just unscrew a nut n screw it back with de grounding cable

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sun Feb 20 2005 DIY Undercarriage Lighting http://khguan.fotopic.net/c437171.html watch out!! NFS Underground Style lights!! nah.. just some flourescent tubes.. heheh relay + switch give acc. shop do.. other wiring n mounting all DIY Saturday 19 February 2005: watch out!! NFS Underground Style lights!! nah.. just some flourescent tubes.. heheh relay + switch give acc. shop do.. other wiring n mounting all DIY

using 4feet flourescent tubes at de sides n round room lamp for back another one :) side light

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Feb 19 2005 DIY Cold Air Intake http://khguan.fotopic.net/c437153.html this mod let my car breath in cooler air rather than sucking hot air inside de bumper.. i got the 2.5" flexible hose from Drexchan... it took me bout 2 hours to completely install it into my car... after used for a bout a week.. i feel my car got more power... engine response is nice!! more pickup.. n more uummph!! great DIY!! Saturday 19 February 2005: this mod let my car breath in cooler air rather than sucking hot air inside de bumper.. i got the 2.5" flexible hose from Drexchan... it took me bout 2 hours to completely install it into my car... after used for a bout a week.. i feel my car got more power... engine response is nice!! more pickup.. n more uummph!! great DIY!!

this is the standard U-snorkel snorkel removed n replaced with flexible hose wrap with superlon to have a tight fit bumper side n mudflap open a bit so dat easier to work flexible hose - put like this is wrong cos it wil clog water hose path secured by cable ties... no bell mouth yet air box put back in place this is correct way... de hose must be from up to down so dat it wun clog water when rain dismanteled U-snorkel... made my car few hundred grams lighter :P

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Sat Feb 19 2005 DIY Voltage Stabilizer http://khguan.fotopic.net/c436430.html This is a 12V DC voltage regulator for cars. Benefit from this gadget are: 1. Smoother engine idling 2. Brighter headlights 3. Better quality in ICE n get more bass 4. Increase engine torque 5. Cooler aircon ...( mayb ;) ) Friday 18 February 2005: This is a 12V DC voltage regulator for cars. Benefit from this gadget are: 1. Smoother engine idling 2. Brighter headlights 3. Better quality in ICE n get more bass 4. Increase engine torque 5. Cooler aircon ...( mayb ;) )

khguan DIY VS VS instaled beside battery made of many capacitors soldering job top view these are for sale :)

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Feb 18 2005 My Car - 2001 Proton Wira 1.5GLi http://khguan.fotopic.net/c421151.html My Car - 2001 Proton Wira 1.5GLi Friday 4 February 2005: My Car - 2001 Proton Wira 1.5GLi

DIY spring stiffener... solves sagging problem a little 3M Nomad Carpet Microkompressor.... sucks air.. Useless piece of junk (air power jet) 4-Point Ultra Racing Strut Bar APM Bonnet Gas-Lifter HDD magnet on rampipe for better torque Rims covers in white DIY eyelids - removed due to peeling closer look of DIY eyelids WRC Wedge Bulb - RM15 WRC Wedge Bulb my old Pioneer HU... antique!! RM500 tinted glass for whole car perpective view of my car.. DIY Dual Air Twister

Published in khguan's DIY Gallery

]]> Fri Feb 4 2005